Virgin King Valley

November 1997

It just keeps happening in Northern Victoria. After the non-stop music of the Wangaratta Festival of Jazz and Blues at the beginning of the month, next weekend there are two more wonderfully distinctive parties. There's big brother Brown Brothers eleventh wine and food weekend at Milawa and little sister King Valley Virgin Wine Food & Arts Festival at Whitfield.

King Valley is finally coming onto the wine map. Ross Brown (of Brown Brothers) says that it is now the state's premium wine area and where his family's company sources most of their fruit. For many years this lush, protected triangle of rich land along the King River (from the Whitlands in the highest part down to the plains of Wangaratta) was covered with tobacco plants. In the 1970's Brown Brothers pioneered the planting of vines and encouraged the mainly Italian growers to switch from tobacco. In the 80's vines spread through the valley and there are now 29 companies operating in the area.

The Pizzini family from Merano (Italy) reluctantly pulled out their tobacco and converted the curing sheds into a winery. In 1979 with advice and encouragement from Brown Brothers they planted Rhine Riesling and, explained Fred Pizzini, "we used to sell all our crop to them up until about 5 years ago but now its only about 33% of the crop and then we supply another 7-8 companies . . as well as make some of our own wines (under the Alfred Pizzini label) ."

There are a number of other growers with similar stories. John Stokes at Wood Park had a traditional grazing property until persuaded by Brown Brothers to plant cabernet in 1989 and then, against their advice to plant shiraz in 1991. "I asked Browns and they said, on no account, plant any shiraz , we don't want it". John is pleased he ignored that advice as his 1997 Wood Park Shiraz just won best overall wine in its class at the Victorian Wine Show. John has a degree in Biological Science but no wine making qualifications so, like Fred Pizzini, he calls on the experts for help. Rick Kinzbrunna of Giaconda has made his Chardonnay (from grapes grown at cousin John Leviny's Meadow Creek vineyard) for the past three vintages and it is John Ellis from Hanging Rock who has assisted Fred Pizzini. As growers like Fred and John started to have a go themselves at their own harvest, they decided to get together and taste the results at the "Shed Wine Show". What was a strictly amateurs' event is now divided into three classes -- the shed category, the small winemaker category (the section John now falls under), and the open winemaker category in which Brown Brothers will enter their wines made from King Valley fruit. Ross Brown thinks the Show is a wonderful event. "Everybody there has equal judging rights. It's a very good way of doing it and the results are pretty accurate, at least 90% as good as a professional show group. I think it's quite an interesting way to get wines judged rather than using people who've got a lot of pre-determined ideas".

This year's Shed Show will be the main attraction of the King Valley's Virgin Festival conceived by Natalie Pizzini, 25 year old daughter of Fred and Katrina Pizzini of Lano Trento Estate. Natalie manages the Mountain View Hotel at Whitfield which her parents bought three years ago. It is very much a family run place. Her cousin Adam, 23, is the cook, the pub sells her father’s wines (plus a huge and excellent list of amazingly good value local wines - from $9 a bottle), her mother helps in the kitchen and her grandmother provides some traditional Northern Italian recipes. We tried a delicious Kernederli, a full flavoured chicken broth with dumplings made from crusty bread, pancetta, salami and parsley. The young chef was lured back from the Ritz Carlton in Sydney where he had just completed his apprenticeship to take over the hotel kitchen, or rather to take part in its rebuilding from a domestic space to one capable of serving up to 100 meals a night.

The Pizzini influence on good food and wine in the area does not stop at Whitfield. They and David Heathcote (Moyhu Estate) got together to buy a property at Oxley five years ago which they converted into the King River Cellars and Cafe. The cellars provide local vignerons with a place to sell their wines until they have the resources to provide their own cellar door sales. The neighbouring cafe has been leased to Steve and Will Flamsteed. As well as being a chef, Steve is a cheese and wine maker and has just completed vintage in Provence. The brothers gastronomic dedication has made King River Cafe (phone 03 57273461) a wine and food mecca for the area. It is open Wed-Sun with a short but very well executed menu, a great atmosphere, young keen staff managed by Katherine Delaney. There are the daily pizzettas with their crisp crust and inventive toppings, always a hearty stew, such as navarin, a tajine, a confit and a 300 gram prime steak with. Beatrice Allan's vegetables and Milawa Mustard. The Flamsteeds make all their own relishes, dips, humus and pickles and are becoming famous for their preserved lemons which will be available soon at the Prahran Market. With the cellar next door the King River Cafe is an essential stopping place not only for good food but also for the latest info on the wineries in the area. Brown Brothers are minutes away (their Epicurean centre provides a menu with foods to match a selection of Brown Brothers wines by the glass) John Gehrig where Steve Flamsteed helps make the wines (notably the Merlot which will be coming out under a King River Cafe label), To be able to relax and enjoy the vineyards, it's safest to stay in the area. Wangaratta has plenty of accommodation and another good place to eat is The Vine Hotel where Dennis Mifsud cooks dinner just four nights a week (Wed-Saturday, book 0357 212605) The huge trees and palm in The Vine Hotel's garden make for one of the Festival's great jazz venues. In the town itself, the Scribblers Cafe in Reid St. seems to be the muso's favourite place for breakfast (as at Marios Fitzroy it's served all day).

On Saturday John Stokes will be entering his 1997 Wood Park Shiraz into the Shed Wine Show. There will also be food and wine stalls, buskers and entertainers, a craft market, an art prize, furniture and wood working competition and exhibition, flower show, children's art and craft. On Sunday they’ll feature a Latin American band and, a Petanque (French Boules) competition in the carpark beside the Mountain View Hotel. The Shed Wine Show is open to the public at the .Swimburn Pavillion-Whitfield, where for $10 you can try the wines then cast your vote and if you book in quickly, might be able to join the growers and the locals at the dinner. Bookings and enquiries 0357298270. Brown Brothers 11th Wine and Food Weekend will feature food stalls from local restaurants including The King River Cafe, cheeses from the Milawa Cheese Company, helicopter flights and rides for kids with Saturday Evening Under the Stars with a three course meal, big band , fireworks display. Bookings 1800 814484