Mietta's Review
In it's new guise, the restaurant at the Conrad, Lab, is supposed to be a cafe - it's certainly priced and served as such but the feeling is still that of a hotel restaurant. That the food is good and well regarded by Brisbane's top chefs, only adds to the confusion, particularly as it is (relatively) inexpensive. The quality of the food and its sophistication sit uneasily with the open necked waiters, stressed and running. It's a feeling not helped by the obvious professionalism of the staff who are clearly more used to gliding noislessly through well dressed diners that cutting corners on the run. In 06 mains averaged $27.
Other Published Opinions
QLD Good Food Guide 2012 May 01, 2012 Score: 14/20 "
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Queensland Good Food Guide 2012 Score: 14/20
Courier Mail Food and Wine Guide 2011 Score: 15/20, One Star "When the Lab is on-song it is terrific. When it isn't, it remains very good, but wears the patina of the large-hotel restaurant - the service becoming a little bit by-numbers and the edible product lacking the edge that makes it shine on good days"
Gourmet Traveller 2011 Australian Restaurant Guide "The Lab occupies a classy corner of what was once the Lands Administration Building. One thing hasn't changed, though: the place is still filled with suits. The food, although not overly adventurous, is consistently impressive, as is the personalised service"
Queensland Food and Wine Score: 15/20, One Star "Nestled in a corner of the old Lands Administration Building, the Treasury Hotel's Lab Bar has much to delight - not least of which is the show-stopping bar itself"
Gourmet Traveller 2010 Australian Restaurant Guide "It's Lab by name, but far from laboratorial by nature. Chef Craig Bettjeman's formula for success is French-influenced modern Australian food that's as restrained and elegant as the decor"
Courier Mail Food and Wine Guide 2009 Queensland Score: 15/20, One Hat "During the week you can opt for a more casual menu which is served on the deck. Any restaurant with the word bar in its title should boast a wine list worth writing about"
Gourmet Traveller 2009 Australian Restaurant Guide "Despite its seemingly scientific name you're unlikely to find dusts, soils or gel anything here, just cleverly sourced produce in seasonally led dishes. The former Lands Administration Building boasts a heritage bar, excellent by-the-glass wine and enough tempting back-vintages to void discerning wallets"
Brisbane Times Score: 14/20
Courier Mail food and wine guide Queensland 2008 Score: 15/20, One Hat "One of relatively few good places to eat at the top end of the CBD, the lab is a welcome institution - part of a hotel complex, but relieved of the hotel mantle to some extent by discrete access from George Street"
Gourmet Traveller 2008 Australian Restaurant Guide "You might expect test-tube gastronomy and supercilious staff, but Lab s an acronym for Lands Office Administration Building (its previous function) and the ambience is convivial, the food modern but recognisable"
Brisbane News Dining Out Guide 2007 "As part of a polished team of professionals in this architecturally splendid dining space, chef Lee Kuhnell has helped earn this sophisticated venue a swag of Restaurant & Catering Queensland Awards in recent years"
Gourmet Traveller 2007 Australian Restaurant Guide "This congenial CBD spot is great for a relaxed lunch or dinner. In no way resembling a laboratory, The Lab owes its name to the former Lands Administration Building that houses it, one of the city's sandstone treasures. Dominating the long, high-ceilinged room is a grand old wooden bar and cedar-arched windows that overlook the streaming march-past of public servants and students out on the street."
Brisbane News Tony Harper, 20-12-06 Food 7 Wine 7 Service 7.5 Ambience 8 "The Treasury Hotel on George Street has The Lab Bar and Restaurant, a place that, at least on face value, has plenty to suggest that it might be a cut above the mundane. For a start, it's been cleverly and tastefully fitted out, retaining facets of the building's original grandeur. The result works well visually. It's an airy room with lofty ceilings and large windows. Smartly attired waiters and neatly laid tables lend an air of competence, and the whole package looks polished, luxurious and modern."
Courier-Mail Good Life Restaurant Guide 2006 * "Lee Kuhnell, formerly of Il Centro, is head chef at The Lab, so named after the initials of its former life, the Land's Office Administration Building. It's a mix of old and new - a huge oak bar dominates the dining area and the furnishings are modern."
Gourmet Traveller 2006 Australian Restaurant Guide "Lab occupies one corner ofthe former Lands Administration Building (hence the name), now serving as the magnificently restored Hotel Conrad. A massive old cedar bar, truly splendid to behold, dominates the restaurant, along with an expansive arched window."
Brisbane News Eating Out Guide 2006 "Retaining few reminders of its past life as the home of a government department, this spacious restaurant is snappy and classy, with dramatic arches, a chic colour scheme, and an expansive 100-year-old cedar bar."
Courier-Mail Goodlife Restaurant Guide 05 * "A huge ornate oak bar dominates the room and modern furnishings and creamy white walls create a feeling of space and light."
Gourmet Traveller Australian Restaurant Guide 2005 "It's a mainly business and political crowd so service is prompt and quick lunches are a specialty. The sublimely named chef, Helmut Poxrucker, searches for new, quality produce from within the state and designs his dishes with these as inspiration."
Brisbane News Dining Out Guide 2004 "The sophisticated restaurant, in muted tones of cream and chocolate, has retained features of its heritage-listed building, and the menu is a mix of old and new, too."
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide Australia 2004, Excellent wine list, Good vegetarian options,'Lab sports thoroughly modern, very minimalist decor...The menu features lots of tempting East and West combinations...lots of inspired choices...There are many wines by the glass and even more in the extensive cellar'
Brisbane News, 2002 Eating Out Guide
Brisbane Times, Bar, Alicia Pyke, 2/10/02
Brisbane Times, Restaurant, Alison Walsh, 1/5/02
Courier-Mail, Dining Out, Lizzie Loel, 13/2/02, Score 14/20